|
Sharpening Stones
If you want to keep a sharp edge on the tools
you use, you will want to buy a sharpening
stone. Sharp tools are far safer and easier
to use than those with a dull edge because
you do not have to force the tool to do its
job.
There are four basic types of
sharpening
stones, each with its own pluses
and minuses.
- Synthetic waterstones are usually the least
expensive. They are available in coarse to
very fine grits (220 to 8000) but the most
versatile models are combination stones with
different grits on each side. These stones
are easy to maintain. They need to be occasionally
flattened to keep them from curling. They
need to be soaked in water because the abrasive
slurry on the surface of the stone does most
of the actual sharpening.
- Ceramic stones come in a wide variety of
grits (120 to 15,000). They can be used either
wet or dry, making them more portable than
waterstones. They are extremely hard and
long lasting. They are easily cleaned with
a powered abrasive cleaner and a nonmetallic
scouring pad.
- Oilstones can be made from either natural
stone or less expensive manufactured silicon
carbide synthetics. They come in coarse,
medium, fine, and superfine grits (120 to
900). They are durable and long lasting.
Oilstones need to be lubricated with oil
when they are used to keep tiny metal shavings
from clogging them. This makes them messier
to handle, and, if you are not careful, the
oil can stain any wood surface it comes into
contact with.
- Diamond stones are very durable and will
last longer than any other type of stone.
They come in grits from 220 to 1200, but
these stones do not have the ability to sharpen
as well as the others. They are easy to maintain
by simply rinsing off the surface with water
after each use.
Like sanding wood, the grit you will need
depends on the condition of the blade you
are sharpening -- touching up sharp blades
requires only a fine or superfine grit, but
reworking a dull blade requires starting
with a coarse grit and working your way up. |
|
|