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Sewing Thread
Thread can be classified by three characteristics:
the type of fiber, how the thread is constructed,
and size.
Fiber Types
The most common types of fiber used in thread
are cotton (weakest), poly-cotton, rayon
(medium strength), linen, nylon (high strength,
elastic), polyester (high strength), metallic,
and silk.
Because thread properties can be augmented
by manufacturing, read the manufacturer's
description before buying. For example, cotton
that is "mercerized" has had the
stray fibers removed from the surface of
the thread and then treated to swell the
fiber and thus increase its luster and receptiveness
to dyeing.
There are also special purpose threads such
as fusible & dissolvable: fusible thread
turns to a glue when ironed to allow bonding
fabrics without permanent stitches; dissolvable
thread can be used to baste and then it dissolves
in water.
Construction
Thread can be made from a single or multiple
plies. In muli-ply threads, different fibers
can be used. For example, a nylon fiber core
wrapped in cotton fiber yields a thread with
the strength of nylon and the softness of
cotton.
Size
For the same quality thread of the same fiber
and construction, the thicker the thread
the stronger it is. In the US, the two common
measurements of size are Tex size and yarn
size:
- the Tex size is the weight for a given length,
and so T-18 through T-27 are lighter threads
used for lightweight sewing while T-30 through
T-50 are medium weights for medium weight
sewing.
- the yarn size is an inverted ratio compared
to Tex size; thus the higher the number,
the lighter the thread. Yarn size has a second
component to indicate the number of plies
used to make the thread.
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