Bikes
hybrid
road racing
touring
track racing |
Thinking about long-distance riding or commuting
more than 10 miles to work? Designed
for
comfort and reliability rather
than speed,
touring bikes are great for long
distance
riding.
The drop (ram’s horn) handlebars
are designed
to provide multiple hand positions,
allowing
you to change your position from
sitting
upright to slightly leaned-over
to leaned-over
(sitting in an upright position
with even
a slight headwind can be grueling,
so you
will want the option of the leaned-over
position).
Some of the more expensive bike
manufacturers
have a quick-change system that
allows you
to change from one style of handlebar
to
another in just minutes.
Most touring bikes have twenty-one
speeds
to allow you to bike up the steepest
inclines
and cantilever brakes that will
allow you
to stop when pedaling with a
heavy load.
The bike’s weight will come into
the equation
if you plan to be riding through
mountainous
terrain. A sleek and aerodynamic
frame with
lateral rigidity will increase
your speed.
Tires on a tour bike are narrower than a
mountain bike, but wider than a racing bike,
and allow you to ride on paved or hard-packed
dirt roads without much trouble, but they
can't handle loose dirt or sand. As you map
your trip, remember to plan your long-distance
rides on paved roads.
Reliability and durability in
a touring bike
is a must, as are sealed bearings,
fender
mounts, and built-in rack mounts.
Remember,
you will be carrying a considerable
amount
of baggage with you on your bike
(tent, camping
equipment, clothing, food). If
you choose
a trailer rather than panniers
for touring,
you can overlook the lack of
rack mounts.
For shifters, you want down tube
or bar end
shifters that can switch from
index to friction
shifting.
Some touring bikes come with aluminum frames,
others with a steel alloy. The benefits of
aluminum are the corrosion resistance and
weight. If scratched, an aluminum frame won’t
rust. The drawbacks of an aluminum frame
are that they may be more prone to cracks
and are stiff, which means that they won’t
absorb shocks or flex as well as steel.
Most touring bikes come with low-quality
pedals. Manufacturers assume that you will
want to replace them with a high-quality,
personally preferred pedal. And speaking
of pedals, when you test-drive a touring
bike, make sure that when you turn a hard
corner at low speed, your foot doesn’t come
into contact with the front wheel. This is
fairly common in some touring bikes and should
be avoided as it is a startling and potentially
dangerous design flaw. Other features that
manufacturer’s seem to downgrade in quality
in order to reach a lower price are front
and rear derailleurs, the seat, and seat
posts. |
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